Choosing the right spun polyester sewing thread can significantly improve production efficiency and garment quality. While spun polyester thread is known for its versatility, not all types deliver the same results. For manufacturers and sewing professionals, understanding how to select the appropriate thread type based on the fabric, project, and equipment is key to preventing costly disruptions and ensuring consistent output.
At Ningbo Johnson Textile Co., Ltd, we help clients optimize their manufacturing performance by offering a wide range of types of spun polyester thread, each tailored for specific needs. This article provides an in-depth guide to help you make the most effective selection for your sewing processes.
Overview of Common Spun Polyester Thread Types
Not all spun polyester threads are created equal. The primary way threads are differentiated is by thickness, which is categorized using Tex, Denier, or ticket numbers. These numerical values correspond to the thread’s weight and diameter and help determine which application it's best suited for.
Thread Weight Standards
Tex: A global standard that refers to the weight (in grams) of 1,000 meters of thread. The higher the Tex number, the thicker the thread.
Denier: Common in synthetic fibers, this measures the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of yarn or thread.
Ticket Number: A commercial reference number used widely in garment manufacturing. It’s inversely related to thread size—smaller numbers mean thicker thread.
Thread Thickness and Use Cases
Heavy Threads (e.g., Tex 60 / 20s Ticket): Best for durable applications like denim jeans, workwear, upholstery, and canvas bags. These thicker threads provide visible stitch lines and extra strength for seams under tension.
Medium Threads (e.g., Tex 40 / 30s Ticket): Often used for general apparel including trousers, shirts, and jackets. They balance stitch strength with flexibility.
Fine Threads (e.g., Tex 20 / 60s Ticket): Ideal for lightweight fabrics like lingerie, silk blouses, or technical sportswear. These thinner threads create minimal seam bulk while maintaining integrity.
By selecting the correct thread type, manufacturers can prevent common issues such as puckering, seam visibility, or seam failure due to underperformance.
How Thread Type Affects Machine Performance
One of the most overlooked causes of machine malfunctions is incompatible thread choice. The thickness, twist level, and surface properties of the thread all influence how it interacts with sewing equipment. Improper matching can lead to skipped stitches, thread breaks, needle damage, and inconsistent tension—halting production and lowering overall efficiency.
Thread and Needle Compatibility
Each thread type requires a corresponding needle size to ensure smooth flow through the machine’s mechanisms. For example:
Tex 60 threads should be paired with size 110/18 needles.
Tex 40 threads work best with 90/14 or 100/16 needles.
Tex 20 threads are suitable for 70/10 or 80/12 needles.
Using too thin a needle with a thick thread can cause jamming or breakage. On the other hand, a large needle with a fine thread might create oversized holes in the fabric, compromising seam integrity.
Tension and Feed Settings
Thread size also affects the machine’s tension and feed settings:
Thicker threads may require lower tension and larger needle eyes to reduce friction.
Finer threads generally need tighter tension to create uniform stitches.
Incorrect tension often leads to looping, skipped stitches, or even thread unraveling after the garment is worn or washed. Monitoring and adjusting your machine settings based on the selected thread is essential for optimized performance.
Lubrication and Thread Path
Heavier or coarser spun polyester threads may generate more heat and friction during high-speed sewing. In such cases, lightly lubricated threads or adding silicone thread guides can reduce machine wear and overheating. Premium thread types often come pre-lubricated or polished to minimize these issues.
By understanding how each thread type interacts with machinery, operators can reduce downtime, lower defect rates, and improve overall production flow.
Matching Threads to Project Needs
Every project has different priorities—whether it's aesthetics, strength, flexibility, or abrasion resistance. Using the wrong thread type can compromise your design or functionality, even if everything else is perfect. Tailoring your choice of types of spun polyester thread to the project ensures both visual and structural success.
Apparel vs Home Textiles vs Industrial Applications
Garments (Fashion, Casualwear, Uniforms)
Threads need to withstand regular movement and washing. Medium thread types (Tex 30–40) are preferred for general use, while stretchable fabrics may require finer thread for better drape and flexibility.
Home Textiles (Curtains, Cushions, Bedding)
Threads must be colorfast, strong, and durable. Depending on the fabric weight, either Tex 40 or Tex 60 threads are ideal. For visible topstitching or decorative seams, a thicker thread enhances the product’s appeal.
Industrial or Outdoor Applications (Tents, Workwear, Automotive Upholstery)
Choose thick, high-tenacity spun polyester threads. These offer exceptional resistance to UV exposure, abrasion, and strain—especially in harsh environments.
Testing Before Full-Scale Production
Running a small batch test before full production is a smart practice. This allows manufacturers to:
Assess how the thread performs under actual machine conditions.
Examine stitch uniformity and appearance.
Confirm color matching and seam strength.
Evaluate fabric-thread compatibility.
If any issues arise, switching to a slightly thicker or finer thread or adjusting machine settings can resolve them before major production begins. This proactive approach ensures fewer surprises, fewer repairs, and better outcomes.
Maintenance Tips to Keep Performance Consistent
Proper storage and handling of thread are just as important as selecting the right type. Even the highest-quality spun polyester thread can degrade if exposed to poor environmental conditions, leading to uneven stitching, fraying, or breakage.
Avoid Moisture and Humidity
Spun polyester threads are naturally resistant to mold and mildew, but excess humidity can affect their finish or cause dye bleeding. Store thread in sealed containers or climate-controlled environments, especially in coastal or humid regions.
Protect from Dust and UV Light
Dust particles can cause thread buildup in machine components, affecting tension control and stitch accuracy. UV rays can degrade thread color and weaken the fibers. Keep thread spools away from direct sunlight and in clean, closed storage areas.
Prevent Tangles and Twisting
Improperly wound spools or poor organization can result in tangling, which delays sewing and can lead to waste. Use vertical spool racks or thread organizers to maintain proper alignment. Avoid stacking spools horizontally, as this encourages unraveling and knotting.
Monitor Shelf Life and Aging
Even synthetic threads like spun polyester can age over time. Spools stored for many years might become brittle or lose dye vibrancy, particularly if exposed to extreme temperature fluctuations. Implement a first-in, first-out inventory strategy and inspect older stock regularly.
Consistent maintenance, combined with thoughtful thread selection, ensures your sewing operations run smoothly and your finished products meet the highest standards.
Conclusion
Maximizing efficiency and quality in sewing production begins with choosing the right types of spun polyester thread for your application. From heavy-duty industrial use to lightweight fashion garments, every project benefits from a well-matched thread that enhances seam integrity, machine compatibility, and aesthetic quality.
At Ningbo Johnson Textile Co., Ltd, we offer a comprehensive range of spun polyester threads tailored to different specifications and industries. By selecting the right type and following best practices in machine setup and maintenance, you can minimize errors, increase productivity, and deliver consistently high-quality results.
If you're looking to elevate your production with the right thread solutions, contact us today to explore our range of spun polyester threads and receive expert guidance tailored to your manufacturing needs.
